Getting Your Dog to Pose for a Photo

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Getting your dog to pose for a photo is basically teaching a stay with distance, duration, and distraction. First, create a training plan. What position do you want your dog to be in? Where do you want to take the photo? Dogs do what they are trained where they are trained……..think that over for a minute. What that means is that dogs need to be trained (yes practice and practice some more!) in the very spot where you want them to do the behavior. Once the dog has practiced enough in a lot of places he can generalize, meaning apply the behavior in different locations.
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In these photos my dogs (Mako-top photo, Ally and Ryka in the lower photo) are doing a basic sit stay and a down stay. I started off asking for the position, the sit or down, marking correct behavior(click or marker word), then rewarding. As they began to understand I gradually lengthened the time before the click. Remember the click tells them they are correct. It also says you are getting rewarded and ends the behavior.

So it looks like this:
“Sit” the dog sits. I wait a second and if he is still, I click. I then give him a treat and tell him he can get up. Its a really short stay.
Next add time. If you waited one second before clicking last time then this time wait two seconds. You will slowly build time. Don’t get in a hurry. Practice as much as your dog needs. Only click if your dog is still. If you click on movement that’s what you will get, a moving dog. This is called duration.

Now that your dog will be still in the desired position you add distance. Only a little at a time! It’s so tempting to say stay then take off but hold your excitement back. I always start with just a little movement. Maybe move one of your feet back. If your dog remains in the stay click, reward, release. Next take one step back. If your dog remains still click, reward, and release. Got it? Sometimes your dog will jump up after the click. No problem. The click does end the stay. As your dog “gets it” you can slowly add more distance. When I do this I do a yo-yo type movement. Dog sits, I move away, dog is staying, I click, I walk back to my dog to reward. Yo-Yo. This can be good exercise as you really add some distance.

Distractions are the last thing to add. At this point my dog can hold a stay in the desired position at the desired location with me moving away. I then add in distractions like the camera. A camera can be scary for a dog. The lens looks like a huge black eyeball. Large round eyes are threatening in DBL (dog body language). The shutter sound is also a distraction. Set your dog up for success. On the day you get the camera out stay close (no distance work) and keep the stay short. As your dog gets used to the distractions add the distance and duration back in.

Teaching your dog to stay while you dance around and talk to them might take a few weeks but you will be rewarded with great photos!


Do I Have to Use a Clicker?

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“Do I have to use a clicker?” is one of the most commonly asked questions. My answer is no you don’t, as long as you are ok with your dog learning more slowly than the rest of the class. Using a clicker is not necessary in training. People have trained millions of animals without a clicker. But really, who wants training to take forever and require incessant repetitions? Not me. I want my trainee to learn quickly and with as little effort on my part as possible. I like training the easy way.

The “click” from the clicker tells the trainee a lot of information. It says “You are correct”. This becomes a powerful motivator and you end up with a dog that works to figure out what you want. The dog is actually trying to make the clicker go off but in order to make that happen it must get a behavior correct. The difference between a clicker trained dog and one trained without is dramatic.

“Can I just use my voice?” is always the next question. Sure you can. Think about this though. How many times a day does your dog hear you talking? What percentage of those words are intended for the dog? Probably not a lot. Unless you live alone and only have your dogs to talk to. Even in that situation you have a dog that is used to hearing conversation and is also used to ignoring it. So how powerful is a spoken word?

I always use a clicker to mark correct behavior in the initial training phase. As my dog makes progress I introduce a verbal marker. This verbal marker is only a back up marker. Sometimes I might not have a clicker or sometimes I’m just not fast enough to click so I use the verbal marker. It’s not as strong as the click but in an emergency I’ll use what I have. In order for the verbal marker to be powerful it has to be rewarded just like the click. When you click your dog you must reward your dog. Same goes for the verbal marker. Accidental “marks” still have to be rewarded because you want to maintain the integrity of the marker.

Now that you are re-thinking the whole clicker thing where do you start? Begin with loading the clicker. This is where you “click” then reward your dog. During this phase your dog is learning to associate the click with a reward. The click is only as powerful as the reward is rewarding……. Think paychecks. Which is more motivating, $2000 or $2? For your dog it may mean giving a piece of hot dog instead of a cheerio. Every dog is different. Find what works for your dog. Things other than food can also be used as rewards but that’s a different article.

Once your dog understands that click equals reward then you are ready to train. Start with something simple. Your dog walks towards you. “Click” then reward. You just reinforced the coming when called behavior. How easy was that? Your dog glances your way. “Click” then reward. You just reinforced focus! So simple. If this is so easy what’s the catch? Maybe your dog staring at you a lot? Possibly your dog wanting to work and constantly offering behaviors?

“Will I always have to use the clicker?” No you will not. The clicker is used to communicate with the dog. Once the dog understands the behavior they no longer need that communication. Now if you want to refine the behavior you will use the clicker. Lets say your dog understands sit but you want them to sit more quickly. You no longer need to click the sit but you will click when you see your dog sitting faster. Make sense? This is called raising the criteria. Think of it as grades in school. Once your dog masters the kindergarten level (just the sit) you are ready to move to first grade (speed of sitting). Each time you progress a grade, use the clicker but it is not needed for the previous level. So your decision to use the clicker will be made on each individual behavior.

The benefits of using a clicker to mark behavior:
*Dog learns more quickly.
*Easier to communicate with your dog.
*The click is very precise which means you can mark tiny behaviors that become more complicated behaviors.
*The click sound stands out from background noise.
*It teaches a dog the learning process. Once your dog understands the “training game” they process more quickly which means shorter acquisition times.

Remember that the click marks the behavior the dog is doing when it hears the click. Whatever that may be. As long as your reward is appropriate your dog will learn. If in the past your dog has ignored the clicker that means the reward was not sufficient (most likely). You can always start over.

Training should be fun. Using the clicker is motivational for your dog and you. It helps you to focus on the positive.
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Wearing Wings


Our latest project is learning a freestyle routine called “Bug’s Life”.  Its a choreographed routine to music where a whole group of cute little dogs dance around in wings.  So all that said the hard work starts with just wearing these wings.  This is Sprocket.  Today I’m teaching her to 1) wear her wings without eating them and 2) sit on the step stool while wearing the wings.  As the music starts each dog will be on a step stool with the handler standing in front of them.  I have already reinforced Sprocket for getting onto the stool, remaining on the stool, and sitting on the stool.  She will offer this behavior as soon as she sees the stool.  So now she is ready to add the wings!

ImageI put the wings on Sprocket then mark correct behaviors frequently.  I mark (click) any time she focuses on me and anytime she is still.  If both happen then that’s even better.  She learns quickly and understands the click means she is correct so this doesn’t take long.  Being still is the most difficult thing for her to do so I keep the training session short.


First she is rewarded for being still and focusing on me while she is on the ground.  Once she has that then I add the stool.  So the final product is my busy, busy puppy sitting still on the stool while wearing wings.  Success!  The next step will be to add duration and change up our location.  The presentation of the whole routine will be done outside in a park with a crowd of people and dogs around so there is quite a bit of training left to be done.


Leo learns the Auto Watch


Leo is learning how to cope with his fears. He’s a shy guy that finds the world a little overwhelming. Sometimes he hides.  Sometimes he barks and lunges. To work some magic with him we are teaching him the auto watch.
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Leo has just noticed Sam, a big fluffy teddy bear of a dog, walking towards him. Sam walking towards him makes Leo uncomfortable and he begins to show signs of being nervous. Closing his mouth is one of these indicators. He also becomes still.
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Leo then looks away, a calming signal. He also does a tongue flick. This is a quick flick of the tongue out of the front of the mouth. Now here’s where the auto watch comes in. When Leo feels uncomfortable due to a distraction, a trigger, we want him to automatically look at his human.
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And here it is, the auto watch. Leo was stressed by the appearance of Sam so he offered some calming signals then looked at his human! With practice this will become the default behavior when Leo becomes stressed about a trigger.
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Meet Sam! What a cutie. He deserves a moment in the spotlight too. Sammie is the laid back “bomb proof” helper dog. He gets to walk around eating treats just for existing. That’s the life.

A quick note on the training method. We are using a clicker to mark the correct behavior then giving a yummy treat. You can see them in the first photo. The clicker allows us to be very specific about rewarding an exact behavior. Which means fast learning. And I love when dogs learn at light speed.

Happy Training!